C. sasanqua is stunning in the Fall garden
If you were to ask me what is my favorite flower, I would have to say, “what ever is in bloom”! Right now, in my neck of the woods, that would be Camellia sasanqua. Their flowers are the jewels of the chilly garden, blooming during fall and winter months depending on the variety. Handsome, glossy, evergreen foliage is an elegant plus in winter providing the garden with needed structure.
Flower color ranges from pure white to pinks and reds, some with interesting variegation. While the species has a great many varieties most gardeners are familiar with C. sasanqua, blooming in fall and C. japonica, which boasts blossoms in late winter. Combining these two in your garden gives several months of color when little else is in bloom.
Despite their somewhat fussy reputation, camellias (zone 6b-9b) are quite easy to grow once you understand a few principals. First, put the plant in the right place and plant it right!
Enjoy Camellia blooms indoors by floating them in a shallow bowl
Camellias’ ideal growing conditions are not unlike those of azaleas and so make great planting partners. Specifically, they require a loose, well-amended, acidic (6.5 pH) soil that is moist without remaining soggy, and little competition from other plants’ roots. Their roots have high oxygen demands, therefore are pretty shallow. Cultivating and under-planting around the roots of camellias is not recommended.
Preferring semi-shade they can be planted under tall deciduous trees that do not have an aggressive root system and pines. C. sasanqua is better able to tolerate a sunny location if it is not in the hot afternoon sun. Artificial shade can be created using lath or shade cloth if the conditions are too intense.
Susceptible to root-rot, you’ll want to be sure the root ball is situated so it will not eventually settle below grade. Camellias do not do well in heavy soils. In clay soils I generally recommend amending as much of the planting site as you can rather than only the planting hole. Amending only the hole in those conditions could lead to water accumulation, a sure cause of death. Finally, mulch well and think about this; the plant is essentially still in a pot until the roots break free into the surrounding soil so pay attention to its moisture needs until well established.
Larger blooms occur if only one bud is left per stem
Another important factor to consider is proper fertilization. Camellias are not heavy feeders and do not react well to over-stimulation. Interestingly their bloom time is also their dormant period and should not be fertilized then. Cottonseed meal and fish emulsion are good natural choices. Two or three feedings between April 1 and September 1 is all that is necessary.
Pruning is advantageous to control size, maintain shape and create strong branches to support the weight of blossoms. As with most plants it is always best to prune after the bloom period. Camellias also benefit from disbudding. This is the removal of flower buds adjacent to the main terminal bud, which results in a larger more robust bloom, hence the reason for judicious pruning to support the larger blossom.
Given the year ‘round beauty and longevity of these plants I would heartily give a thumbs up for you to try a few in your garden. During those dreary days of fall and winter I think you’ll be glad you did!
For more information:
Camellia Blooms that Fail to Open
About Joe Lamp'l
Joe Lamp'l is the Host and Executive Producer of the award winning PBS television series Growing A Greener World. Off camera, Joe dedicates his time to promoting sustainability through his popular books, blog, podcast series, and nationally syndicated newspaper columns. Follow Joe on Twitter
Hi
I planted my first camelia bushes about 3 months ago and they look plenty healthy however as I live in the Gulf South we have very sandy soil
I’m wondering what kind of growth rate to expect? So far, they are putting on lots of blooms but no upward growth
Joan,
I would recommend adding some organic material or compost to your planting hole for your camellias.
If you have only had them for 3 months, wait until early winter when temperatures are cooler and carefully dig them
up and add the soil amendments. If you are hesitant to do this, you can add 1/2 inch of compost to the top of the soil
making sure to not pile it up near the trunk where moisture creates an inviting situation for potential disease problems.
I would also suggest pinching off some of the flower buds to encourage more vegetative growth. If you fertilize remember, follow the directions for the amounts. (More is not better). Make sure to keep plants well watered during dry periods,
even in winter. I hope this helps.
Hi Joe, I recently bought a house which has camelias potted in large wine barrels on the common ground. I didn’t realise until possibly too late that the one outside my door was my responsibility, and it happened to be the one that was flooded constantly. It’s winter here in NZ, so raining almost daily. I’ve syphoned off the water, tried to mix in some fresh potting mix, and drilled several 1cm holes (about 7) around the sides of the pot low down. 5 days on, the water is still continually draining from those holes which is good. But the camellia may be dying anyway – the few buds it had were skinny compared to the other plants and have now turned brown and shrivelled up. Quite a few of the leaves have turned yellow and are dropping too (perhaps the roots have rotted). Is there any way I can rescue this plant? The other camellias in pots on the property are healthy and starting to flower.
Hi Amy. Hope I’m not too late. I do think your plants were drowning. If you still can, I would replant them. You can use the same container but just make sure those drainage holes are plentiful. then make sure the soil is no longer saturated. You may want to go ahead and replace that too with an acidic soil such as ground pine or conifer bark combined with other soil amendments. Good luck!
I’d love to plant camellias intermittently throughout an oak forest in SW MO. The soil is rocky and not very moist. Is this even possible to make them survive here? Suggestions for success?
You’re likely too cold for camellias Lori. Check with your local gardening experts: Master Gardeners, and nursery workers and extension service. They can tell you if you have varieties that will work there. I’m doubtful though. Hope I’m wrong.
tru green put a lot of nitrogen on my camillas theyare turning brown ,is there anyway to correct this
Yes. Fire TruGreen and give it time. Your camellias will be better off without them. Hopefully they will recover and I think they will in a season or so.
I HAVE PLANTED SOME CAMELIAS WITH MOSTLY PINK FLOWERS, BUT THE RED FLOWERS I LIKE THE BEST. THE QUESTION I HAVE IS THE LEAVES ARE GREEN, BUT NOT DARK GREEN. IS THERE ANYTHING I CAN ADD AS I KNOW YOU SHOULD NOT FEED THE CAMELIAS UNITIL AFTER THE MARCH SEASON OF FLOWERING IS OVER.
I think you will find that the leaves darken up as the season progresses Randy. Camellias like moisture but but not fussy about extra fertilizer so don’t bother. Give it time and see if that solves your problem. I think it will.
Hi, I want some winter-flowering things which have roots which will not disturb buried pipes if planted nearby. Do camellias qualify?
Camellias can get very large Linda so they may pose a problem as they grow. Also, they’re not particularly winter hardy so farther above SC you go, the more trouble you’ll have. On a much smaller scale, consider hellebores (lenten rose). It’s my favorite winter perennial since it blooms in winter and is very hardy and deer resistant!
I have one white flowering doing okay, I think. Planted another one with red flowers at nursery but its seems not doing well. First it’s kind down approximately 1-2 inch below adjacent ground level? Leaves are turning brown! Don’t know if its bugs, snails, over or under watering – I water like twice a week and flood the hole . Soil is clayish but had mis put in at planting. What to do?
It could be a number of issues but here’s where I’d start. Dig the plant up and fill in soil so when you replant it, it is slightly higher or NO DEEPER than the existing soil. It could be that your plant is drowning because of the heavy soil and all the water is pooling around the roots.
Next, how much sun is this plant in? Too much sun will cook a newly planted camellia. Even established plants prefer growing under a canopy of mostly shade. I’d start here. Bugs and diseases are likely not the issue here. It’s environmental I strongly suspect.
I have a seed pod from my camellia Will these seed germinate? If so when should I plant them and how do I get the best results in central Alabama?
Are there any Camellias that bloom in December with a red flower?
Check out the variety ‘Yuletide’ Bill. One of my favorites!
I have a five gallon corkscrew camelia I bought a couple months ago. When is the best time to take out of pot and plant?
Now if you can keep it watered Jean. That’s the key. Head to head, any plant has a better chance of survival in the ground vs. in a container. They dry out so quickly where the ground won’t dry as fast around the roots. But you MUST be sure to give you plant adequate water for the next several months. It takes a long time to establish until they’re on their own. And for camellias, don’t plant in direct or harsh sun.
I have a new camellia bush and it’s doing well, but there is a small bulbous “fruit” on it…kind of like how a rose bush makes rose hips. My instinct is to remove it. Is this a good idea? If so, is it edible like rose hips?
Thank you,
Debra
Sounds like a gall Debra. Go ahead and remove it. It’s likely not going to be an issue either way though. But don’t eat it!
that might be a seed pod
We moved back south last August and last week I picked up my first camellia to plant in our yard here. It was a 2 gallon plant I thought just looked in better shape than any of the others. (the others were distressed in any way, this one just looked a bit better.) The staff at the nursery suggested that as it has 3 trunks already at this young age, I could divide it into 3 plants and said it would probably be better for the plant if I did. I grew up with camellias, but they were larger plants by the time I was old enough to notice things. The plants were never divided, just grafted if Daddy wanted another of a particular one. While I’ve divided many a perennial plant, I’m hesitant to just start cutting the roots of this camellia apart. Is it really advisable to divide it?
Hi Helen. It is very common that growers “stick” multiple cuttings (often 3) into a 1 or 3 gallon container and sell it to consumers at retail garden centers as one plant. There’s nothing wrong with that. In fact, I sometimes like to see this as a consumer if I want to separate those cuttings into individual plants so I have more than one. The grower’s rational for selling plants this way is that the container fills out quicker. But if you catch it fairly early, you can remove the rootball from the container and divide the cuttings into 3 unique plants. I do this frequently. It’s a great way to buy one nursery container and get 3 plants from it. As long as you can get a good knife or other sharp tool to cut through the root ball to get a good supply of roots for each of the cuttings and repot or replant the individual cuttings, you’ll be fine.
I live in Sacramento, CA,, and have two very old camillias in my front (north exposed) bed. They started looking bad a few years ago and I added some chicken manure around base and fed them and watered them well.. one came back quite well, but one is struggling and I am afraid I am losing it. It has a lot of redwood debris around it, unlike the one that is doing well. Could that be part of the problem? I don’t do raking and clearing around them normally, just let them grow as naturally as possible, but I am concerned about this white finlandia that use to be so gorgeous.
Barbara, it’s just too hard to say without knowing more, and basically assessing the site. My first suspicion is something going on in the soil. Maybe drainage is insufficient at that spot or it’s not getting enough water. I wish I could offer more definitive advice but that is just not possible without being there. Good luck Barbara.
Hello
I’m living in irvine california i would like to plant camellia but just confused which kind can survive better in my ground
i have clay soil with compost and morning sun till 12:30 PM
i like the camellia japonica but i don’t know if i can handle it with those condition or i need different shade one.
Nadine, I can’t say for sure from Atlanta as to what grows best where you live. I suggest you make friends with your local nursery (not your local box store!). They can advise as to which varieties do best in your area.
Also be sure to take advantage of your local county extension service. They are typically staffed with volunteer Master Gardeners during the week manning the phones to take your questions. They are pretty passionate folks, happy to help and have time to research you questions for you also. Plus many are experts on subjects like yours and will likely have someone on the team that can help with your specific questions. Plus it’s free! You can’t beat that.
Here’s a link you can use to find your local extension service office: http://nifa.usda.gov/partners-and-extension-map?state=GA&type=Extension
Good luck.
I have a bush that was pulled out of the ground by some mover’s. I was going to relocate it but was not sure it would live without all roots. Will it survive the move?
There’s no way to know that without more information but I will say this. You will be surprised at just how resilient plants can be. It never ceases to amaze me. As an example, I once rescued a very large azalea from a backyard that was about to be developed. Although I tried to dig it out with as many roots intact as possible, I failed miserably. There were very few roots left by the time I got it out of the ground. But just to see, I took it home to my garden and planted it. I diligently watered it for days and weeks while it hopefully sent out new feeder roots and began to establish. I saw not signs of life for over a year I think.
But then, one day, I saw new growth. Long story short, it not only survived, it eventually thrived.
The moral of the story is don’t assume or give up too early. Pick the best time of year to transplant (like right now in fall), keep it watered even when you think your efforts are in vain, and say your prayers. The resiliency of nature is truly amazing.
Go replant that plant in the perfect spot, keep it watered for a month or so, and add mulch! Let me know how this works out. I’m counting on you to save this plant Ruth!
Have a couple well established mature camellia plants in my So. California garden. No complaints, but I have noticed that the blossoms fall off while in full bloom. Is that typical?
I have a huge camellia plant that is full of buds and blossoms . because here in florida
we had such extremely warm weather in Dec. it has now turned cold. How low does
the temperature have to be for me to cover it.
I have covered it before when the temps got down in the 30’s.
We live in Northern Kentucky 6a, will Camellias grow here?
What varieties will do well here?
Any special care needed?
I would like to plant two camellia japonicas along the eastern side of my home in southern California. They would be getting morning sun only. Right now the two plants are in one gallon containers and both are about two and a half feet tall. My question is: after planting them in the ground in front of the windows alongside my home, about how long might it take for the camellias to reach a height of around six feet? I would like them to provide an attractive visual screen between my home and my neighbors walkway.
Thanks!
-Bob
Hi Bob,
My name is Brie, I am the former grower and propagator at Camellia Forest Nursery. Of course Camellia japonica growth rates vary depending on variety and cultural conditions, but in general they will flush twice per year, resulting in 15-30″ of growth. Generally I recommend cutting each of those flushes in half, to increase branching and make the plant denser. If you prune the new flush when it is slightly hardened you wont run the risk of cutting of flower buds.
Be sure to keep them evenly moist, fertilized and also be on the look out for scale, under the leaves, as those factors will ultimately determine how well your plants preform.
Most varieties of C. japonica will eventually (4-5 years) exceed your 6′ desired height, so regular maintenance will be required. ‘Jacks’ is a good dense “dwarf” variety that is easier to maintain long term at a size of 6′ tall x 4′ wide.
Hope this helps! Happy Gardening, Brie
I live in Chatham (Columbia County), NY and was given two April Remembered Camellia plants that were being discarded. Is it too cold here for them?
I’m afraid so Ellen. Camellia’s are not cold hardy that far north. Although there are some varieties that are hardier than others, NY is pushing the limits even on them. Camellias thrive in the south and deep south. I wish I had better news.
I have a old fifteen foot camellia that I pruned open style , like a bonsai for lack of a true style..It
did well for a few years…but the last two years full branches are dying …. so it’s not looking well …it’s losing the affect I was trying to have. I live in so California , Inland Empire
.
Hi Deborah. This sounds like dieback, common on camellias that have had large branches pruned off (aka tree forming). On camellias when you prune large branches you have to leave about 1/2″-1″ from the trunk of each branch to allow for it to “compartmentalize” and naturally die off. If the cut is flush to trunk there is no way to avoid the disease entering the vascular system. It will slowly kill off other growth over time. There are no chemical or natural remedies, unfortunately. This is particularly bad on the west coast, esp in the Bay area.
Hi, my wife and I live in middle Tn. west of Nashville. We are zone 6b. We have one side of our home that is almost full shade. North western exposure.Soil is gravely clay with much natural oak leaf mulch. Would like to plant on this sight not sure if there is enough sunlight for plants and to keep soil dry enough to prevent root-rot. Any help would be great. I grew up in central Fl. and love camilas. We always had trouble with squirels eating the buds.
Hi Bill. I think Camellias would be a good choice for this area. But i would work to amend the soil in that area so it drains better. You could do that with some composted bark. Not sure if you have a product there called Natures Helper but if so, use that generously worked into the entire planting area and root zone. It could be a big job but well worth the effort. Anything that will lighten the soil, shredded leaves, fine bark or mulch, compost will help. As for the shade, you may not get as many blooms, but it would still be a beautiful plant for a shady location. Good luck.
Hi! I recently fell in love with Camellia japonica. Can you direct me to a website or have information on planting Camellia japonica specifically? I reside in Thailand and Maryland. Thank you for your help.
Hi Alisa. My go-to site is The American Camellia Society’s website. Here’s the link: http://www.camellias-acs.com/
We live in WNC near the TN border. The camellia I planted about 7 years ago was full of flowers from October on the spring. We had a very cold winter and in lat February the buds were frozen. I just noticed that many of the leaves and branches are frozen too.
I see that there are some buds are developing in the wall area, other three sides are exposed, I do not intend to touch the branches until the dead leaves are off. At that point I plan to remove the dead branches and water the roots as to force new growth.
Is there a better way to rehabilitate the half dead camellia? Thank you for your response.
That sounds like a good plan Jules. If branches are dead, it’s best to cut them out. Eventually new growth should occur as sunlight reaches the main trunk and new branch buds break to fill the void. You may want to cut the branches partially back first to make sure they’re dead all the way to the trunk. This will give you a faster recovery time if there’s life still in the lower portion of the “dead” branches. You’ll get new growth just below the cut if so. Good luck and good plan.
Hi I have a camellia which was in a plant pot ,it only flowered once and since then has not flowered the soil is peat as live on the somerset levels.I have now moved it into the garden but it does not look to good can you help.
thanks.
I think your camellia would be happier in the ground if you can do that. Amend the soil with more peat to acidify the planting area. Other possible ways to promote the health of your plant if you want to keep it in the container is to keep if fertilized periodically. Container plants have no access to nutrients once the initial supply has been consumed or leached out through watering. You have to get more nutrients to the plant periodically in containers if you expect optimal conditions. The reason your camellia bloomed once I assume was shortly after obtaining it? It was likely still responding to the fertilizer it had at the time.
Yet give the choice between a plant growing in a container vs. in the ground, the latter is almost always a better option if given the right conditions. Good luck.
Thank you for such an excellent article! It was very informative to someone considering a camellia.
i planted one in 2012 and 2013 both died, What am I doing wrong
I had two goes at growing Camelias and like you both died. A friend said my soil was not acidic.
I planted my next try in a large tub and the bush flourished. The difficulty was pruning again I had to get Expert advice.. I had to get rid of it when I moved and it still flourishes in a Cambridge College after nine years
We have a camelia plant in our garden that was my fathers pride and joy. Hey died 10 years ago and while the plant is thriving it’s gone kinda wild. I need some expert advise on how to trim it and bring it back to true glory. If I send some pics could you advise on how to trim it to make it amazing again. Thanks. Lee stephenson.
I recently saw a picture of the camellia posted by a friend of mine and fell in love. I am researching and see that there are dwarf varieties. Do the dwarf do well in containers? Also, I do have a shaded area where I can plant some of these. If I want to plant 2, how far apart should they be?
Thanks for any info!
Susan
Hi Susan. The dwarf varieties would do well in a container. Just be sure you provide soil that drains well while giving your camellia’s plenty to drink. I have found they thrive on neglect (in the ground) once established but have observed they really thrive with consistent watering. Spacing depends on the variety. It is best to refer to the plant tag that should come with each plant. This will give you important info such as spacing requirements. Some camellias will get as large as small trees, while the dwarf varieties can remain as small shrubs. Wish I could be more specific.
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