Vegetables are classified as either ‘cool’ or ‘warm’ season depending on the conditions in which they grow best
One of the most important factors to growing healthy vegetable plants is to make sure the soil is loose and drains well. Once you feel like you’ve got the soil right, it’s important to check the pH. Almost all vegetables grow best in a pH range of 6.0-6.5. There are kits you can purchase at your local nursery or garden center, but in my experience, they don’t provide the level of accuracy I’m comfortable depending on. Therefore, I’m a big fan of having soil tested through your local cooperative extension service. For only a few dollars, you’ll get lots of helpful information about your soil, which is provided in an easy to read report. It includes not only the pH level, but also information on how to improve your soil to provide optimal growing conditions.
Preferred growing seasons
Each vegetable has a preferred growing season. A vegetable that grows well in the summer won’t even begin to perform in the winter, and visa-versa. That’s why vegetable crops are classified as either “warm season” or “cool season” crops. As we enter into the warm season, I will focus on some of the most popular vegetables to grow, and share a few tips along the way. Included in the list of southern favorites are beans (pole, bush, snap, and lima), corn, cucumbers, cantaloupe, eggplant, southern peas, okra, peppers, squash (summer and winter), sweet potatoes, tomatoes, and watermelon.
“Warm season” crops should be planted outside, after the risk of frost has passed. Check with your county extension agent to find the frost-free date for your area. Many gardeners get a jump on the planting season by starting their crops indoors, weeks in advance of this date. Then by the time the risk of frost has passed, they’ve got seedlings ready for planting. Well almost. This is assuming they’ve “hardened-off” their plants to acclimate them to the outdoor climate. Plants started indoors, such as in a greenhouse, or basement, are accustomed to warmer temperatures. Without gradually getting them used to the cooler, and sunnier conditions of outdoors, the plants could suddenly die. Conditioning them over a week or so, by extending the length of time they are exposed to their ultimate environment, will give the plants a much better chance of getting off to a good start, once they’re planted outdoors.
Use common sense
If you are buying seedlings from a nursery or garden center, use common sense as you shop for your plants. Of course, avoid any plants that look sickly. These are suffering in some way, and if purchased, you may be bringing home a disease, or pest which may spread to other plants or crops in your garden. If you don’t find healthy looking plants, don’t buy them. As you’ve surely seen, vegetable plants are sold in many places around mid April, so you’re sure to find some healthy plants at another location. Also, you might want to inquire from the store manager when their first, or next shipment of plants is due to arrive. This way you will avail yourself to the freshest plants the store has to offer.
Read the label
Once your seedlings are ready to plant, the best general information is to read the label that came with the plant, or on the seed pack. Not all plants are put in the soil the same way. Many plants are planted at the same depth as the root ball. Other plants are planted more deeply, such as tomatoes. It pays to do your homework, especially if you are looking for great results the first time. However, I’ve learned as much about gardening from my failures, rather than my successes. Of course, there is no substitute for planning and preparing, but don’t be afraid to experiment if you’re unsure. The worst that can happen is that you have to replant, or wait until next season. Both are very forgiving options.
About Joe Lamp'l
Joe Lamp'l is the Host and Executive Producer of the award winning PBS television series Growing A Greener World. Off camera, Joe dedicates his time to promoting sustainability through his popular books, blog, podcast series, and nationally syndicated newspaper columns. Follow Joe on Twitter
I’d like to try tomato bags but can’t seem to find the ones from your show.
Can you share the web address (URL).
Thanks,
Phil
Phil,
Here is a link for the grow bags that were featured on Growing a Greener World.
Happy gardening! Peaceful Valley – http://www.groworganic.com
Where can I buy those black plastic growing bags for vegetables can you please e- mail me I live in LI NY thank you
Charles, Here is a source for the grow bags that were featured on Growing a Greener World. Happy gardening.
Peaceful Valley – http://www.groworganic.com
Hi Joe, I’m a new viewer and really enjoy all the information and tips for vegetable gardening. My question is this, after watching the show on a year in the life of a garden, I was impressed with the beautiful raised beds in your garden. What type of timbers do you use to make the raised beds? I have always tried to avoid treated lumber in the past, have they improved the treatment process to make it less toxic? Thanks and keep up the great work!!
Ron,
Thanks for your feedback, glad you like the raised beds. The timbers I used are cedar and although they may be more expensive than pressure treated, they are rot resistant, look great and last a long time.
I really enjoy your show and have learned a lot I am also using raised beds I have not been mulching but I want to this year I am redoing my irrigation what kind of mulch would you recommend ?
RC,
Mulch is great for weed control, moisture control, keeping soil temperatures moderate in the summer and winter, and reducing soil borne diseases. There are so many choices, if you buy bagged mulch, shredded hardwood is a good choice. Make sure any bagged mulch you purchase is certified by the Mulch and Soil Council. Straw or shredded leaves also work well. Here is a link for my podcast about mulch and why trees change color. https://joegardener.com/podcast/026-using-leaves-as-mulch-and-compost-and-why-leaves-change-color-and-shed/ . If you get bulk mulch be sure it doesn’t have any residue from chemicals, https://www.growingagreenerworld.com/is-your-mulch-safe-heres-how-to-find-out/
I have been trying to find those for sided bricks that take the 2×4 but have not found them. Can you help?
Thank Victoria Thomas
Rowlett Texas
We got them at Home Depot Victoria. I think they’re called builders blocks (but don’t hold me to it). Also, they don’t hold 2×4’s but something slightly thinner I think. But once you find the blocks, you’ll know what works with them.
I enjoy your show and hope that you can help me. I have moved to a property that is red clay. I have been an organic gardener most of my life but not in clay. What is the best way to get this “brick like” soil into garden ready condition?
Hi Neva. As one who has gardening in Georgia red clay all my adult life, I know a think or two about making it better. Know that you can, but it just takes time. The simple answer is that you have to keep amending it with organic matter. Work shredded leaves into the soil, or layers of mulch. Compost is the best but it’s hard to make as much as you need. But you can buy it by the truckload if your budget allows. I had a yard that I converted from hard red clay to wonderful garden soil over about 5 years by the annual addition of a think layer of shredded leaves to the bed surfaces each year and mulching over that with ground bark or pine straw. You can do it. It just won’t happen overnight.
Joe,
I saw your program on PBS, loved it, as I love to garden. I was wondering if you could answer a question. It is the 7th year planting in certain space in my in ground garden, where tomatoes go. This year I want to rotate the tomatoes. Is there a plant or plants that I can put in that give back to the soil. I know soybeans are one, but I don’t use them . If you know please list a few. Also, can’t I just replenish the soil w/ compost/organic fertilizer or should I let it go fallow. Thanks.
Hi Nancy. Thanks for your kind words. I suggest you at least amend the soil in those beds with compost and or other organic matter like shredded leaves, well-aged cow manure, etc. If you plant something else in those areas that improve the soil (with nitrogen – they’re in the legume family), that could work to add that element. But keep in mind, all plants will draw nutrients from the soil. So you still need to add back nutrients. You can do that will organic fertilizer but I suggest just doing what I said initially. Build the soil health by adding organic matter. My first choice is compost. Add about 2″ to the surface and work it in to the top 4-6 inches. Your beds and plants will thank you for it!
Is gagw to be scheduled on Connecticut public tv (pbs) for 2016?
Hi Joseph. Our show is available to any public television station that wants to air us. If we could control who carries us, we’d be on every channel. But of course that’s not the case. It’s up to you and other viewers in your community to contact the Program Director at your station and let them know you want to see Growing a Greener World on your channel. They listen as you are their members! The more they hear from their viewers about wanting to see a particular series, the more likely they will air it.
I wish I had more control over that process but I don’t for obvious reasons. But your voice matters. I hope you will let them know. Thanks Joseph.
Hi, Joe. Have been enjoying your show for several seasons. I agree with you that pH is important, but up here in Kane County, Ill, the Uof I extention service charges $35 and up per soil test. They informed me that because I use raised beds, to get accurate readings, I would have to test each bed individually. I have 12 beds, Joe! I’d need to sell my youngest son to afford it. Can you offer your take on this? Am I being scammed?
Yikes Mike! I have 16 raised beds and unless I had a specific reason to know what was going on in specific beds, I would not spend the money to have a test done for each one. It’s just not necessary. You have to assume that if you’ve treated and filled all beds similarly, then the results should be similar as well. Certainly each bed will likely have slight variations in the numbers, but not enough to justify the time, trouble and expense. Unless your livelihood depended on what you grow in those beds, take one test.
You might want to take a large bucket and collect a general sample from each bed and then blend it all together to get a general population sample of all the beds in one test.
Joe, I considered the bucket sample. Thinking of going to Lee Reich’s Weedless Gardening methods. Takes the guess work out of a lot of things.
I’m trying to grow plants that will grow over winter, greens,squash, onions and anything else. I’m living in central Texas, any ideals.
Hey Doug. There are a lot of crops that will do well over winter in your area. However, since I don’t live in your region, I would direct you to get specific examples from your local county extension service and one of their Master Gardeners. They should be available to take your call and help.
Here in the Atlanta area, I grow food crops year round. While squash and other classic summer vegetables will not survive cooler temperatures, you might want to look into growing some of what I do from Sept – May: lettuce, cabbage, spinach, brussels sprouts, kale, collards, mustard, arugula, broccoli, cauliflower, peas, chard, beets, onions, carrots, and strawberries.
As you can see, there are many options for cooler weather. Plus, there is less pest and disease pressure.
I have never been able to grow big big sweet onions l live in kc mo. Area
Onions need long hours of daylight to mature. If you don’t live in Washington State (Walla Walla) or the North, please look for special short day onions, with name such as Texas Sweet or Alabama. These sets will mature in 100 days. Good Luck!
We watched Growing a Greener World for the first time today(Jan 10,2015) on cable AETN in Conway, Arkansas. Enjoy your show and will be sure to put this entertaining gardening program on our Saturday morning TV viewing schedule. We are avid flower and vegetable gardeners and are always looking for new ideas. As 76 year olds, we want our gardening experience to not only be beautiful, but also tasty and healthy.
Respectfully,
Herb and Norma Evans
Conway, Arkansas
Hi Herb. Thanks so much for these kind words! Love all that you have to say here. Thanks for letting us know!
NEW viewer. LOVE the show!
Hi Sue and welcome! We love that you took the time to let us know and hope you’ll be an active visitor to our site and long time viewer of our show. All the best.
Joe, I have had success in my vegetable garden, but this spring my plants were thriving until June I noticed they were dying. Upon investigation I found cut worms!! I saved only a hand full of them and transplanted to containers {not knowing to use potting soil}. I didn’t harvest in abundance this season. Recently I turned the garden dirt, some cut worms are still there even after treating the area. Question; can I use the garden soil with the cut worms after treating or would I need to get rid of the garden soil and start over.
Ronni, you can reuse this soil. I would supplement it with compost to enrich it but don’t worry about the fact that the soil was “treated” if that’s what you’re asking. Also, you should look for B.t (sold as Dipel) to treat your cutworms. It is safe to use and only affects the worm larvae. They will ingest it and stop eating. But another chemical free way to deal with them is to wrap a foil barrier around the stems at the base, or a plastic straw. You need a barrier of some sort. Good luck.
I just retired from the aerospace industry and I have planted the following (in Los Angeles) and the plants are doing just fine and I am very proud: Pak Choi to their left is Daikon radish and behind them are Asparagus beans. Do these veggies get along? My Asparagus beans are now a foot tall and the others are a good 6 inches tall. I watered them with worm tea, is that good?
I have also round black Spanish radish, squash (Summer Golden Egg) and Nasturtium. I read online that these get along, is this true?
Thanks,
Billy
Hi Billy. I think you are fine with all of these plants growing in neighboring space.
I just finished reading your piece in my Sunday paper. To say I winced when you talked of tying your tomatoes up with twine…….
As a Respiratory Therapist back in the day, I was told by a co-worker not to throw away oxygen tubing. I caught on really quick and so did my Dad who I took the tubing to. It has the strength to hold up tons of tomatoes. It never cuts into the plant, nor will it burn them.
See if you cant talk to your local hospital to give it a try.
When you find you LOVE it, just give me a shout out in the email. 😉
Sincerely,
Donna
Is there anything I can do to prevent the “wilt” from destroying my squash and cucumber plants year after year?
Hi Dawn. The “wilt” in squash plants can be from disease or squash vine borer (a pest) or squash bug or beetle. They’re all different. On cucumbers, it can be disease or pest related also. Since the wilting therefore can be a result of several causes, there’s no one answer. But here are a few suggestions:
Plant as early in the season as possible. Sometimes you can get ahead of the disease and pest cycle. In other words, starting early might allow you to get through the growing cycle before pests or diseases find your plants or conditions are ideal for diseases to take hold.
Next, stay proactive! You have to inspect your plants often. You’re looking for signs of insect pests or subtle changes in foliage. The sooner you can identify changes and take action, the better chance you have of staying ahead of problems. With insect pests, you have to remove them. It’s easy to do when you catch them early and young. I don’t spray so don’t have a suggestion for you there.
Wilting on leaves of squash and cucumbers can be from powdery mildew also. I spay a mixture of 2 parts water to 1 part milk every week as the first signs of this. And after any rain. It helps keep the mildew in check and reduces the wilting caused by this.
)n aarticle in the Sac.Bee you mentiom dolomitic limestone,and fishemulsion,seakelp,where can you purchase these products? And how do you use them.When do you dig them in the ground?I would likre to try them out as I am having a hard time growing tomatoes up here in Cameron Park.Thank You Ernest Bryant
Hi Ernest. The best place to find these items locally is an independent garden center. Although I’ve noticed the box stores going a better job of carrying some of these products, they have a long way to go. Ask your favorite nursery if they have these products or if they can order them. If you can’t find them, then you can order these products online. A source I like to use is http://www.groworganic.com. Good luck.
Great show watch it all the time. great tips. what are the cause,s yellowing besides over watering and under watering ?
Thanks Dennis. Very happy to hear you are a loyal viewer. In the absence of spotting or unusual markings, lack of sunlight for sun-loving plants and too much sun for shade loving plants can cause leaves to look yellow.
Should I use sulfur to lower my PH from 7.0 to 6.5? After lowering it, will it stay there?
Yes, or look for a “Soil Acidifier” product by Espoma or other company. Your natural soil will slowly revert back to it’s natural pH so check it every 2 years or so.
I love the show. I just watched the first episode and I love it!! it’s just so relaxing to watch the show…. the information is priceless. My DVR is now programed to record series.
Thank You Steve! Comments like this are our favorites!
love your programs.
We love that you took a moment to tell us. Thank you!
What is the best time to start seeds indoors? Late April or early May?
Thanks,
Radha
Love the show on enriching soil. could you do a segment on crop or plant rotation. I heard you mention how you don’t want to grow the same thing twice in a row (pun not intended). What interested me was how other plants in the same family of plants could be planted inadvertently after a previous year.
thanks
Rich
Hi Richard. We should do a more in depth explanation on crop rotation. Not sure if you saw my short segment on it in the Young Farmers episode here: https://www.growingagreenerworld.com/episode312/ but like most things we do, there is a lot more information on the subject we could cover if we had the time. I will make a point of expanding on this topic in an episode this season from my garden. It’s an important subject and worthy of a review and expanding on the topic. Thank you for taking the time to suggest this.
I enjoy watching your show and have learnt useful lessons that I can apply in my own garden.
Thank you.
Radha
Thanks Radha. That’s our goal with every episode. Thanks for taking the time to let us know.
I intend to start a veg. garden spring 2014
i wish to grow garlic and scallions!
No exercise beats gardening! Soothes the body and mind!