Even though certain death is imminent trees are still topped indescriminetly
They’re everywhere; trees disfigured and dieing from years of abuse. Specifically, I’m referring to the misguided practice of tree topping. Also known as pollarding, stubbing, dehorning, heading and several other terms, it has risen to crisis proportions nationally over the last decade.
Topping is considered the most harmful tree pruning practice known. In fact, it’s regarded as such a serious crime against nature, one organization’s major efforts over the past two decades has been to stop this “torture and mutilation”.
That group, Plant Amnesty was founded in 1987 by Cass Turnbull of Seattle, WA. This nonprofit uses a unique blend of humor and controversy to raise public awareness of these “Crimes Against Nature” committed in our own backyards. Yet despite more than 20 years of spoken and written information, it remains a common practice.
According to The International Society of Arboriculture, the most common reason given for topping is to reduce the size of a tree, either because it has become too large for the property or a perception that it may pose a hazard. Ironically, topping is not a viable solution to reducing size or hazard.
Topping Stresses Trees
When a tree is topped, up to 100% of the leaf bearing crown is removed. As leaves are the food source for any tree, the absence of this food supply can temporarily starve the tree.
As a defensive action, the starving tree responds by rapidly sending out multiple shoots from latent buds below each cut. This action is the tree’s survival mechanism to put out a new flush of leaves as soon as possible. Moreover, if the tree does not have sufficient stored energy reserves to respond in this way, it will seriously harm the tree, even leading to its premature demise.
Topping Does Not Control Size
As new shoots grow to desperately replace their food making factory, they do so rapidly, sending up numerous “water sprouts”. In some species these new shoots can grow up to 20 feet in one year. Trees will grow back rapidly and they don’t slow until they reach about their original size. It only takes up to a few years for that to happen.
Topping Does Not Make Trees Safer
The new growth that rapidly ascends from latent buds just below each cut is only anchored in the outermost layers of the parent branch. These weak attachments will never have the structural integrity of the original branch and can break off easily, even years later when they are large and heavy.
When proper pruning cuts are made (just beyond a branch collar at the branch’s point of attachment), healthy trees are genetically equipped to close the wound. Improper cuts from stubs or topping don’t heal as readily and may not be able to close. The exposed wood creates decay, entry points and pathways for pests, diseases and destructive organisms to move into and through the branches.
Topping is Expensive
Recall that as a tree is topped, it rapidly grows back, although with thinner, weaker branching. Topping to reduce size is a vicious cycle. Each cut sprouts multiple new branches and the conditions become exponentially problematic with each cycle. Eventually, when the tree dies because of the effects of the cumulative stress and damage, even more money will likely be spent to remove it.
The Best Alternative
When the occasion arises and it becomes necessary to modify the height or spread of a tree, consult or hire a professional arborist. An arborist will determine the type of pruning that is necessary to maintain or improve the health, appearance and safety of your trees.
Certified or professional arborists won’t use tree-damaging climbing spikes unless they are removing the tree completely, they don’t list topping as a service in their yellow pages ad and they’ll never suggest it to you as a solution, because it’s not!
About Joe Lamp'l
Joe Lamp'l is the Host and Executive Producer of the award winning PBS television series Growing A Greener World. Off camera, Joe dedicates his time to promoting sustainability through his popular books, blog, podcast series, and nationally syndicated newspaper columns. Follow Joe on Twitter
Got a sycamore tree in sothern I’ll it’s been very hot and dry do I need to wait to have it trimmed till we have more rain
I wouldn’t add any more stress to a new tree during this very hot, dry time. I would wait until after it’s dropped its leaves. So that means winter. But do keep it watered until then. Establishment is the most important thing you can do right now. It will need a lot of water through the hot months and well into fall Ron.
Joe, we live on the Texas coast and the house we bought has 3 sweet gum trees that are all well over 120 ft high. I just had tree trimmers come cut them below the rotton spots so now they are About 50 to 75 ft high. Will they grow new limbs again? Hated to cut but scared of storms bringing down through roof.
Hi Cynthia. Sweet gums can be scary because their form is tall and slender. I can see how you would be intimidated by the fact they could come down in a storm. I am surrounded by them on my home landscape and I have to admit, I find myself thinking the same thing.
However, cutting them back will likely produce new growth, but this new growth will be far weaker than the original wood. You are more likely to have future loss of limbs to storm damage since the new growth will not be nearly as strong as the original form.
The best I can say is keep you eye on what develops and hope for the best. I know that’s not a lot of comfort but it’s a fact that the new growth that emerges from cuts like this will never be as strong as what was removed.
Hi Joe, I live in Edmonton Alberta and I have a red Maple in my backyard. Last year my husband and I moved it away from the house because we were extending our deck. Our neighbors decided that the branches were hanging into their yard, so they cut back the branches in several places. They cut in the middle of the branch. Should we cut these branches back to the base of the tree or leave it. Will it grow from where they cut it?
The tree also needs pruning because it looks very sparse. when trimming should be cut anything from the top of the tree at all or just leave it. I would like to see this tree fill out more and I’m not sure where to cut to get it to do this. could you offer me some advise please.
thank you
Hi Cheryl. Branches will sprout new growth around the closest dormant leaf buds to the cut. However, this may be several inches or more below the cut. The remaining stub will likely die. Best to make corrective pruning and shaping in the winter when you can see the overall structure and the tree is dormant. But if you want to promote new growth and have your tree fill out, follow branches back from their tip until you get to a point where you see leaf buds on both sides of the branch. When you make the cut, do so about 1/4 to 1/2 inch above this space with a sharp pair of bypass loppers or pruners. You could make these cuts now and new growth will emerge and should harden off before it gets cold again. But don’t wait much longer. The closer you get to fall, the more chance you have of new growth dying back from cold weather. The next best time to make these cuts is late winter, or early spring.
Hi, Joe! I love your site and appreciate your sage advice to the folks with questions. Two years ago, my husband and I moved to a home in Alpine, CA, a small hillside community in East San Diego County (altitude of 1,800-2,000 feet above sea level). We have five healthy pine trees standing approximately 40 feet high that frame the street front and side of our home. I’m embarrassed to say I don’t know what type of pine they are. We were just informed by our neighbors on both sides of our home that the trees block their view and creep over one neighbor’s property. Being good neighbors, we want to preserve the trees and neighborly peace. Thank you!
Jane
Thanks Jane! Wish I could tell you. Good luck!
Oh noooo. 2 years ago I paid a lot of money to have a huge pine, 2 chinquapin oak and a pecan cut down because all were leaning towards my home and my children’s bedrooms. We get a lot of rain and tornados as well as straight line winds here. I left one oak because the man I hired said he could top it and make it short enough that it would miss the house and my son s room if it fell. It does lean about 10 degrees that way. It has filled out very nicely and I have planted smaller trees and shrubs under and around it. Now what?? As soon as the ground dries up enough I have no choice but to have him return and remove my tree. That makes me sad but I can’t allow it to grow back and risk falling on my son or my home.
Dread.
Thank you for enlightening me.
Toni
Joe,
We put in 10ft. Black cherry two years ago, sunny spot, no competing large trees. It is growing well and looks very healthy. The problem is HOW it is growing. The few lower branches are doing fine, but the main stem is bare, no branches for about five feet up. There are only three other branches about midway down and they are doing fine. One cherry this year. Lol I read that it takes about five years for these trees to really begin to produce. Should I prune back the lower branches in the fall, now, at all? I would love to see some new branch growth on the upper half. Thank you.
This sounds like the tree is dead above the active growth. It should not look dead as you’ve described.
One thing you can do is get high up in the tree if possible and cut away a branch to inspect the interior of the limb. You’re looking for any signs of life, such as green tissue under the bark. You could also simply use your fingernail to scrape away a small layer of bark to see if you see green beneath. If not, that portion of the tree is likely dead. If you see this, keep working your way down and do more of this same inspection. If you don’t see any living tissue down to the active growth, my suspicions are confirmed. If so, you can cut it back all the way to active growth and see if it will re-sprout below that and send up fresh new growth. If not, you haven’t lost anything but you will likely want to replace this tree. Not sure what would have killed it back but it can be a number of reasons.
Hi Joe,
I have a huge wide leaf maple tree in my front yard which I would like to reduce in size by at least one third. I have a friend that used to cut his wide leave maple down to a 15 foot stump every fall. How much can I safely take off this massive tree, and what time of year should I do it?
Hi Lee. The general rule when pruning is to never remove more than a third of the total growth at any one time. If you can wait, I’d do this major pruning in later winter or early spring. Now is the next best time so new growth can form and harden off before cold weather hits. Considering you describe this tree as massive, I would def. wait until mid winter.
Hi Joe!
My question does not involve topping but i believe it may be related. I have a huge maple tree in my front yard which I had to have pruned because of neighbor complaints (I live in a city). In the last couple weeks my concern has been growing as the tree has failed to produce any leaves when everything else around me is green. My question, is it possible that the tree may be stunted or do you think the individual that pruned it may have killed it completely? I don’t see any signs of rot or insects. Thank you in advance!
it could be that all the branches where new growth would sprout was cut off. If so, this can result in delay as the tree responds. Removing branches through pruning wouldn’t normally kill a tree in one round. However, anything’s possible if the cuts were severe or done in a way that damaged the tree’s ability to recover. Without seeing the tree it’s hard to say.
Joe, I have a huge magnolia tree that is roughly 50 years old. I had an arborist come out and trim some of the branches in the girth of the tree, as well as some upper limbs that were broken during an ice storm about 4 years ago. (against his advice on some of the upper limbs) That brought the tree to a more reasonable size, and unlike the arborist indicated, it filled in the pruned places and is a beautiful shape. It also blooms lovely fragrant flowers by the dozens.
But my problem now is that it is TOO healthy, is roughly 100 feet high and has taken over my front yard. It also sheds leaves year-round, making grass mowing and yard work more difficult. I would like to bring it down to about 50 feet, and also trim the girth of the tree proportionately. Will that kill the tree?
Well it sounds like this is one tough magnolia! If I’m reading this correctly, what you want to do now is similar to what you did 4 yrs ago. Even though I would have advised against doing so (as it looks like your arborist did), the tree responded beautifully. Assuming you’d get the same advice from the arborist to do this again (and the same from me), this tree may be able to take it again. But since I am not a Certified Arborist, plus I can’t assess the health of the tree without being there in person, I can’t make a qualified endorsement to dramatically reduce the height and girth. Have you consulted the arborist again? Showing the results of this tree after cutting as you have may change his mind.
I have a Pom Pom Pine tree and it’s getting too tall for me to reach the top to maintain it’s pom poms. I’m really tempted to cut off some of the height so I can better manage the tree. Would this be a terrible idea?
Hi – I too live in ATL and I have two small saplings that have bent over in some recent windy thunderstorms. One has perked back up and the other is still bent. One, I am guessing I need to loosely stake them? But the bigger issue is that both of them have a split or largeish branch nearly the size of the leader at almost ground level. Perhaps they are seeking sun – my yard is part shade but it’s all the yard I have. Anyway, if I prune away those lowest branches, will it help to strengthen the trunk/leader that remains? Or will they fall off naturally as the trees grow? Both saplings are about 4 ft tall now and have been in the ground for two years (yay Arbor Day!).
Hi joy. Those other branches will likely not fall off. But while your trees are still small, I would remove the branches you don’t want or that are competing with the main lead. If I understand your question, you really don’t want dual or competing leads. So if this is the case, remove the newest growth at ground level, stake the remaining lead to help train it to grow straight up, and any limbs you remove, cut back flush with the main trunk.
Great article,, just joined your list…. I understand the theory about NOT topping a tree, how ever,, I have two Shumard Red Oaks in the back yard,, they grow to 60ft, I would like them to only get to the 20to25ft range,, any thoughts to keep them at that height.. Full height would overwhelm my yard. thanks
Hi David. As long as you’re willing to deal with the potential loss of these trees if you continue to keep them cut to 20-25 feet, that’s the worst case. They may survive but generally they’re not “wired” to respond to this type of loss year after year. While I understand these trees are already there, it’s a common problem that people plant the wrong kind of trees to begin with and don’t consider their mature size before planting. Sad truth about the demise of many trees to topping.
As an alternative to removing the tree, I was told by a certified arborist that my Redwood could withstand being topped as they are resistant to disease etc. He said they do not recommend topping trees but in this situation it might be better to take off 50 feet than remove all 150 feet.
Do you have any opinion about this?
I think that makes sense. Less is always better when it comes to “pruning” shrubs or trees. I trust the opinion of Certified Arborist and especially considering they have the advantage of physically seeing the tree in question.
Hello Joe! I have blueberry bush that came in the mail with very small pale leaves due to lack of sun and a broken top. What can I do to bring it back to life? try to refasten the hinging top, or take it off completely?
Thanks in advance!
Hi Jacob. Get that blueberry planted and amend the hole with lots of peat moss and pine bark mulch to acidify the soil. Also be sure to water it in well. Also prune the broken piece down to just above the next healthy set of leave buds. You’ll recognize them as little bumps on the step that will emerge to form new branches once you cut down to just above this, about 1/4 – 1/3 of an inch.
I cut my Australian bottle old and diseased below ground level and to my surprise it not only grew back it now has 3 trunks and about 20 feet high . Question what can I expect in the future for the tree , I want to keep it .
since they’re growing from the base of the tree or ground level then you should have a healthy multi-trunk version of your prior specimen. keep an eye on it but be thankful for it’s recovery. As to it’s future related to the disease, it depends on what the disease was and where it impacted the tree overall. That is why it will be very important for you to be vigilant in monitoring its future health.
We had a Red Maple tree put in our front yard 2 years ago. We are in love with our tree. We have a question our landscaper cut our tree. He cut from the top of the main trunk of our tree and pruned it all around to a small tree. We were not home when he did it. So now we are worried he may have killed it. Joe can you please tell if he has? I tried to cop and paste a picture but it won’t allow me to. Thank you in advance!
Hi Cynthia. Lucky for you maples are pretty forgiving. They resprout to form new branches very well. Let’s keep an eye on this one and hope for the best. I give you getter than a 50% chance of successful recovery. Keep me posted!
What a great topic and thanks for sharing this information about Tree Topping. I’ve been wondering about the positives and negatives of it for a long time.
Good morning Joe from Spokane Washington 🙂
We had very high winds come through our area in November of 2015 bringing down a 100 foot ponderosa pine into our home and $70,000 later we are finally up and running again.
My question is this.
We have another 100+ foot ponderosa around 25 feet from our house that worries us when the winds in November will kick up again, We can’t really afford to take it down fully so would delimbing or skirting help in reducing the chances of this tree becoming part of our house AGAIN so to speak.
Thanks for any advice you can offer
Wow Tim. That was huge expense. Glad no one was hurt I assume. I have to confess here that I don’t know the answer to your question. I would say the price of hiring a “Certified Arborist” at this point for their expert opinion would be well worth it! I imagine the cost would be around $100 for the consult but you can know they are not giving you advice just for a chance to use their chainsaw! Make sure when you see assistance on this project you know you are dealing with a “Certified Arborist”. They even have member numbers for the ISA. Good luck!
Hi Joe, I have a young pecan tree and the kids broke off the main top branch and it seems to be doing good . I was told it will never grow tall. Is this true and should I remove it and replant ? Love to know what you believe . Thank you !
Well Deborah, I believe it is possible that a new leader or limb will grow to replace the top one that was broken. Since pecan trees have an open form vs. a central leader, I would watch it this year and see what is growing in to fill the space. Since it’s young, you could go either way. Certainly replacing it will def. work but I’m just not sure you need to do that. However, since I can’t see the extent of the damage, I really can’t give you a fully-informed opinion.
Hi, I sent you a question this afternoon about my elm tree being topped way down almost to the fork, that was last fall. now about 9 ft up the tree is a offshoot-very bushy, but totally bare above all the way to the top of the tree .The tree is still quite tall. Circumfrence at the base about 6 ft around. I can see near the top of the tree it has tried to send out new shoots, but they are dead, no green at all. I was thinking should I cut the big bushy growth off near the ground seeing as it is taking up all the tree nutrients, so the nutrients will go up the tree. Sorry had to write this again. I did not leave the correct e mail address. Thanks
Hi Pat. In response to this and your other question, cutting the bushy growth off won’t help promote growth towards the top unfortunately. This is one of the problems with topping mature trees and branches. Although new growth may appear, it will not be as strong nor will it be as aesthetically pleasing. If you don’t like the look of the bushiness of new branches lower down, you could cut them off but you will find that in short order, you will get more new growth around the area of the branches you just removed (the new bushy growth area).
I had a guy top my elm, a really tall thick one that has a fork in it half way down the tree. He cut the top of the tree of to about 5ft higher than the fork ,on both forks he cut off all but about 3 ft. The tree top has tried to sprout ,but the pieces died. The only piece of the tree that has sprouted is one piece on lower area of the tree, which is about 9 ft off the ground, the piece is very bushy. But looks silly .. The rest of this tree is completely bare. The actual tree circumfrence is about 6ft. at the base, and about 38 years old. If I were to cut the lower bushy area off , would it send nutrients up the tree so it will grow, or have I totally lost the tree.
Hi, our neighbors (I believe 80-100 ft. And approx 40-50 yrs old) wains dramaticly south…..snapped off maybe 10ft into our back yard. I’m concerned about the ramifications,tree already struggling….will this potentially further stress this pine?
It doesn’t help the case but the only way to know for sure is to have it inspected by a Certified Arborist — not some guy with a chainsaw!
I have a large pin oak( 100 ft or so) and its on the property line. the neighbor has pruned much of the branches on their side. My concern is that the tree will fall on my house if that pruning killed or damaged it. What should I do?
Contact a Certified Arborist and have then inspect the tree. There is no way to tell without a qualified person inspecting this.
Hi Joe, I have a young (maybe two or three years old?) American Sycamore that was was rubbed and girdled by a male deer’s antlers. The tree is less than an inch in diameter and maybe six feet tall. It seems that there is no growth above the area where it was girdled, but there are new buds below, about a foot from the ground. My question is about how to best proceed. Should I cut the tree to the ground (in order to hopefully get a new stump shoot) or just wait and see if the new buds produce something that could eventually be a new leader? Thanks in advance.
I would try to wait and see how the new beds respond. If one assumes the new leader role, go with this. Then eliminate the competing buds near the same position so you can focus energy to the new lead. Also you’ll need to cut the dead lead about an inch above the new growth. Cut at a slight angle to direct water off the wood.
Is it true that magnolia tree roots continue to grow even after the tree is cut down? If so, what is the best way to deal with the root spread that has cracked sidewalks and driveway?
I have a Maple tree in my yard that is about 10 years old. It has a split about a foot from the base and one side has hardly no limbs, making it appear “one sided.” I had planned to top it off until I read this article, now I think that would be a bad idea. Is there anything I can do to make that side start growing better so that the tree has balance?
I googled your site to find out info about planting tall hemlocks, about 15 ft. in place of any area which now has 40 ft. white pines. I can have the pines removed completely. The landscaper says he can bull doze them over because we have the room to drop them into a field. My concern is can we plant hemlock in their place. I know that we will need to water them. I plan to run a drip system through the run of new hemlock. They will be staked so that they do not blow over. I plan to mulch them heavy. My question is, the soil is acidic with a thick layer of pine needle which has been there for 40 years. Is it O.K. to dig the holes for the hemlocks in this soil or will I need to bring in compost and additional soil to plant around the new hemlocks? My second question is, I have read that hemlocks are now getting infested by an aphid of some sort. How often will I have to spray the trees or do I wait to see if they catch the bug?
Hi Kathleen. The pest in question is the Hemlock Wolly Adelgid. Here’s an article I wrote on it: https://www.growingagreenerworld.com/control-of-the-hemlock-wooly-adelgid/
It depends on where you live as to whether or not you are at risk.
I don’t advise amending soil in planting holes generally. Plants and trees actually respond best and adapt quicker to backfilling with native soil. And hemlocks should be fine with a soil that is on the acidic side. They live in regions with similar soils natively.
Watering consistently will be your biggest and most important issue. Then do investigate the adelgid issue.
Hi Joe
Someone trimmed my pine tree while I was gone and totally removed the lower branches. It now looks like I have a telephone pole in the front of my house with beautiful branches so far up that they aren’t seen except from across the street. I am so sick that I can not sleep and want to cut it down and replace it. It is a very tall tree, probably twice the height of my house. The trunk has been swaying in the wind since then and the tree has been dropping many small parts of branches from the top. Do you have any suggestions on what to do? Thank you.
Nothing you can do now Kathy I’m sorry to say. Sounds like somebody wanted to improve their view? I’m afraid your options are to live with it as is or start over. Neither is good I know.
I had my Oak tree Topped by the same company that has pruned it over the years and would like to know what type of products to use to assist in the re-growth of leaves? It was topped some yeas ago and the leaves sprouted on each limb like Pom Poms. Should I keep the leaves trimmed to control growth when this occurs?
Hi Keye. I wouldn’t do any more at this point. Let it try to grow out and allow it to find the appropriate balance. Topping is such an unnatural and jarring practice to trees. They go into extreme growth mode to try and replace the vital foliage that was taken away.
Hi it’s Paul. I have a moose problem and I want my apple trees to grow tall and out of reach. If I cut off all the branches and leave the top as is, will that make them grow tall faster?
Hi Paul. Cutting the lower branches off doesn’t do anything to promote top growth. Generally, new growth is only stimulated around the area of the cut.
I accidentally broke the leader on my young apple tree (3 years old). I’ve clean cut it now, just above two buds. I guess there’s nothing to do now but wait… I’m hoping I’ll have some new growth that will eventually become the new leader. Anything else you’d suggest?
Nothing more you can do now. Next late winter you’ll need to prune the new growth that should emerge from this year’s blunder. Good luck!
we just moved to Washington, are house hunting and saw a great house whose owners just topped their neighbors trees to encourage the sale of his house by “improving” the view of the Sound. We found it ugly and fear if we buy the house we buy the present ugliness as well as the future costs of his mistake. The topping looks like a hedge thirty feet above the ground on a steep slope down to the neighbors’ property. Any advice about the future costs in all their forms?
Let’s hope this was a one-time topping. That is your best chance that this won’t become an ongoing problem. But if they continue to be topped, it will suck the life out of each and every tree. Then the “view’ won’t be the problem I suppose.
You may not have an ongoing issue if it was an isolated issue.
Save my marriage! We were planning to build a house and I removed, rather than top, tall white pines. evergreens. I replanted some other varieties thinking they would grow. Now we are building and they are not nearly tall enough. What can I plant that is already tall and will grow fast? we live in Brevard NC. Thank you!
Hi Sue. I can’t safely make suggestions for your area as I’m not familiar enough with your specific growing conditions. But you should contact your local county extension office as they will be able to give you appropriate plant choices. They are typically staffed with volunteer Master Gardeners during the week manning the phones to take your questions. They are passionate folks, happy to help and have time to research you questions for you also.
Here’s a link you can use to find your local extension service office: http://nifa.usda.gov/partners-and-extension-map?state=GA&type=Extension
Good luck.
Given the negative impact of pollarding / coppicing, why are utility companies permitted to engage in this practice? The utilities say pruning branches that might come in contact with their lines reduces the risk of service interruptions and equipment damage. Sounds good in theory. In practice, this so-called “pruning” typically means topping the tree completely; hacking out the center of the tree whileleaving lower limbs growing up in a “V” around the lines; or, my particular favorite — simply amputating one side of the tree. This preventive maintenance practice needs to be revisited
Ultimately, all utility lines should be underground. This goal could be achieved with a bit of creative engineering and some a long-term planning. No one wants the wholesale slaughter of existing, mature trees that would result from drastic root pruning needed to install subsurface utility conduits. But if done in small sections over time, it’s likely an acceptable compromise could be reached between utilities and the public.
Ultimately, customers would enjoy better service. The disfiguring “pruning” necessitated only when trees reach maturity would cease. Better yet, utilities would realize a reduction in long-term operating costs and increased profitability; both issues of significant interest to shareholders and senior executives. (Note to CEO(s): Imagine not having to deal with pesky Public Utility Commissions that restrict rate increases and profit margins. No lip-smacking profits can lead to drastic pollarding of salary increases; weak dividend growth, severe pruning of stock options; and the inability of your “at risk” compensation package to bear fruit.)
I read your article with great interest. I had a tree company come out in the fall and tell me that the healthiest way to trim my tree was to top it. They removed all of the branches with growth. I was told that it would have new growth this Spring, but nothing new is growing. Did they kill it?
I don’t know Val. It’s possible, but it’s also too early to know. Where I live near Atlanta, GA most trees have not budded out yet, and new growth would come later. But what I do know is I would never hire that tree company again with that kind of advice. I can’t imagine a company that really knows trees making that kind of blanket suggestion.
February 2016 – Northern California/San Joaquin Valley Area:
I recently hired someone to thin out a large, full 20 year old street tree planted on my property. Some branches were hanging over the sidewalk and it seemed like a good idea to remove the lower limbs. Since I had to work I was unable to monitor the workers. When I finally saw my tree I was horrified. I am absolutely sick over what they did. The tree has been chopped to just large bare stumpy limbs and not a single branch left. I don’t know what type of tree it is – spring blossoms are similar to white snowball type clumps and beautiful red foliage in the fall. What can I possibly do to save my tree? I am heartsick. Should I call a tree service to deep fertilize? Is there anything at all to be done?
This makes me sick too Melanie! These people were idiots in my opinion to cut a tree back to no branches! Seriously? I’m sorry this happened and I don’t think there is anything you can do do help it at this point. You’ll just have to wait and see if it recovers from the shock of losing all it’s limbs! I cannot believe this happened. I hope you contacted the company owner (hopefully it is a company that has employees and someone who knows what they are doing). Obviously this person did not.
Also, I would see recourse. Hire a certified Arborist for an hour of consulting time to get their statement on what has happened. They’ll also be able to look at the damage and make any suggestions.
But if I were you, I would not allow anyone else to fall victim to this level of incompetence! You can’t “undo” this and it shouldn’t be allowed to happen. Again, I’m sorry to hear this. It’s a reminder to us all to always hire a company that employs “Certified Arborists”. They know better and would never do this to a tree.
I am not expert, but I grew up on a small farm with a couple of orchards and I have spent a lot of time pruning trees in preparation for the fruit/harvest seasons. My mom is really good at knowing this stuff, but a few people have asked me to help prune their trees that hadn’t been cared for, for years. They said I could just top it, but I didn’t think it was a good idea. So I spent hours trimming out branches. Though I don’t have one, but I thought you were supposed to top off a Catalpa tree every year if you wanted to keep it from getting too big?
Hi Nash. While controlling vertical growth is certainly a reason for pruning, there is still a difference in simply topping a tree and being more methodical about it. Taking a chain saw strait across a tree canopy is not the best practice for the look or health of any tree. Observing where new branching emerges from parent branches and cutting at the right place, using the right technique will go much further in protecting the health and promoting the proper and future growth of any tree.
I believe one of the main reasons people think they need to come back and top their trees each year is because they do it wrong a first time and that just starts a vicious cycle of having to come back each year and take back the new growth.
hi! I have a very large beautiful southern magnolia tree in Costal Georgia… it is however getting very high and in need of a hight adjustment… However, after reading your article I believe that is not an option? Is there not a healthy way to say take off about 10 ft of hight?
hi joe i am a big fan well my tree fell once but you can get this stuff to let the tree still live with those parts missing
If I understand your question ocean, you’re wanting to put sealing paint over the exposed areas or wounds of your tree to protect it. I don’t advise that. Those products can seal in moisture that can make the healing process work. University studies confirm this in independent testing. Best to let nature take its course and heal those wounds and damage naturally.
I have a pecan tree that draws crows, I would like to cut it down shorter so ,l can be able to put netting over it to keep the crows out. The crow are cracking the nuts on my roof so I cannot sleep. Would it ruin The tree?
Probably so Beverly. Dramatically altering the height or structure of a large tree will cause it to respond in such a way that new branching will quickly sprout to replace what was removed. The problem is the new branches won’t be as strong. That will lead to more problems later.
Hi Joe. I hope you can offer some advice to my wife and I. We just went through a devastating wind storm in Spokane, Washington and a 60 foot Ponderosa pine came through our bedroom and caused almost 60k worth of damage. Now we have one close to 80 feet tall that’s around 6 feet from our other bedroom and worried that it could come down in another storm. My question is this since we don’t have a lot of money, can taking all the branches off of this pine make it safer in higher winds or even topping the tree making it shorter. We have 8 of these Ponderosa pines in our yard sadly.
Thanks for any insight and advice you might have.
Tim
Hey Tim. Gosh, I’m really sorry to hear about what happened to you in the storm. It’s the one thing about big trees that I admit make me nervous having them close to the house like in your case.
The honest answer is I don’t know. Since I’ve never been involved with growing and learning much about Ponderosa pines, I don’t know how they might be impacted by limbing up or topping. I still think the best advice is going to come from a Certified Arborist that is familiar with them in your area. While they might want to do a consulting call which might cost about a hundred bucks, this is a case that might def. justify the expense. But you need to find someone who is not motivated to suggest cutting them down just because that’s how they might make some money.
Another idea is to contact your local county extension service. They might have someone there who is qualified to answer this, or refer you to a university resource for free or nominal fee.
Wish I could help more from here Tim, but this is one of those that can only best be addressed at the scene. Good luck.
I have a fir tree that’s 80 feet tall, it was topped some 10 years ago but now has grown 2 new tops. The new growth is about 20 ft tall but my concern is they are both leaning quite hard o the left, if the tree fell in a big wind storm is might his the neighbors place or come back on our property and take out 4 town-homes. Do we top it again or what.
It’s hard to say Don without seeing it. But I suspect a Certified Arborist might suggest that you remove one of the competing leaders. But they would need to see it to know and advise which one to remove if any. But it would certainly reduce the chance of the extra weight at the top.
Thanks for this great information. I would be wonderful if you would do an episode or write about the cultural practice of topping trees (or did I miss this). I live in the Netherlands where pollarding Willows is a long cherished cultural practice, but I think the trees look unhealthy. You often see rotting, hollow trunks. Often you see rows of them by dikes. I’m not sure why this is still done. It use to produce thin branches for wicker furniture and also provide low hanging foliage for cattle. Just curious if you have ever thought about making a show comparing cultural practices of tree pruning etc. and the modern day attempts to introduce more sustainable practices.
Thanks Kristin. I have thought that at some point I need to show how it can be done in a way that doesn’t kill the tree. However, my focus for the time being was to shine the spotlight on the terrible practice of all out tree topping by people who have no idea what they’re doing, and hired by people that have no idea why they really need to have their trees topped in the first place. Arrgh! It makes me so mad!!!
Joe:
I live in Syracuse, NY (quite cold and snowy winters) and two years ago I planted a small fringe tree I purchased in South Carolina. They are not native here. The first winter was no problem for the tree. But last winter was extremely cold and snowy and in the spring I noticed the top of the tree had died, even though the bottom seemed to be sprouting up nicely – so I had no choice but to snip the top off. As you stated, it grew new branches below that and they grew fast – doubling the tree’s height over one summer! I love this tree because I’m the only one that has one up here, but it seems not to like a lot of consecutive below zero days – understandably…. So this summer I bought an AG fabric tree bag to put over it which supposedly helps with frost but still allows light, air and water through. Is this a good idea? What are your thoughts? I was also planning to put these bags over my arborvitaes because they are by the road and don’t like road salt thrown at them and the outsides are turning brown. They say they prevent salt damage as well. Lastly, I have two trees in my front garden bed that should never been planted there (they were there when I moved in) One is a spruce (or pine) tree and one is some type of green-yellow arborvitae type tree. Both have gotten too tall and are also crowding each other. I can’t even see out of my front window anymore. Since topping is a bad idea should I just cut them down? I hope that’s not the answer….
Hi Ben. Sorry for the long delayed response! Don’t worry about the tree bags. I’ve never used them but I believe they are not worth the trouble personally. As for the trees in front of your window, if you are considering cutting them down to be a worst case option, then I would have someone carefully trim them to improve your view. If cut properly and not just hacked off as so many people do, then you stand a chance. Again, worst case, if they don’t respond favorably, then you might have to take then down. But trees are remarkably resilient if you take proper care ahead of time.
We have an unusual rounded pine tree – 25 feet tall and wide with gorgeous red bark – near our sidewalk. This spring, to our dismay and with no warning, our town’s public works guys came by and gave our pine tree a chop. Several branches were cut back, so that they were about 5-6 feet long, with no foliage at all. Later I trimmed these back to the trunk. The tree had been having trouble the past few years, with slowly dying branches on one side. Now, within 3 months of the city’s chopping, the entire tree is completely dead. Is it possibly that the city’s act have caused this? The terrible pruning was at the wrong time, and done the wrong way. Or, was it just the tree’s time to go, and the chopping had nothing to do with it?
My money is on the fact that these guys hack job killed your pine. While not entirely impossible, I find it too ironic to think the tree coincidently died from perfectly healthy in just 3 months. Pines can be very susceptible to bad pruning. This sounds like a case of that. I don’t know what you can do about it at this point. Perhaps call a “Certified Arborist” and ask if they have any ideas? Good luck Monetee. I hate to hear that this happened.
After a heavy snowstorm damaged a few branches on our Swedish columnar aspens and bent many of the branches on the Sutherland caraganas (both types at full height) I hired an arborist for some light pruning and tidying of these and a weeping birch. I was shocked when I saw the result. The aspens now have 11 ft of bare trunk from the ground up with about 5 spindly branches left on the crown. The caragana are totally cut off and are now only six ft high. The weeping birch had about 60% of its branches taken away. Needless to say our garden now has no privacy whatsoever and the trees look so bad. My question is – will these trees recover to their former glory or are they damaged forever. (Canada zone 2) So upset!
Yikes Barbara. This no doubt was sickening to see. If in fact this was a “Certified Arborist” as you say, we have to trust that they did what was needed to repair the damage and put these tress in the best position to recover. They should also know which of those trees will put out new growth from the trunk and canopy. However I do not have experience with the trees you mention so I cannot say for sure. Like you, I’m hoping they knew exactly what they were doing and not just “trigger happy” with the chainsaw.
Please let me know how this plays out. I have my fingers crossed for you.
Barbara, sorry to hear about what happened to your aspens. I hope they have weathered this winter well, and will come back with a vengeance this spring. Maybe the service was not very experienced, and was not able to take care of your trees well. Hope they make a full recovery.
I had someone here to ‘prune’ trees that were close to my house and growing up over the roof line and gutters. Two side by side hollies at the corner of the house and a sweet bay magnolia in the front flower bed. All beautiful and dearly loved. The guy chopped them all off at their main trunks at the roof line. HOW LONG BEFORE THEY DIE? I was absolutely SICK when I saw what he’d done to my beautiful landscaping!
I feel your pain Barbara! It makes me sick to read comments like this. While this is not a guaranteed death sentence for your hollies or magnolia, the original form will likely never be the same. A one time topping hopefully won’t be enough to do them in. The trees will likely attempt to replace their lost growth but without the structural integrity and form of their prior self. While it is unsightly for now, let’s hope for the best. Hollies are very resilient. The sweet bay magnolia has a beautiful form and I don’t know how it will look in time. Let’s hope for the best.
Hello. I have 70 foot pecan tree..young i think. .limbs were breaking off so i wanted to trim it but the guy ended up topping it..now its about 30 feet tall. I live in south texas. I’m worried the tree will die..how long do I have to wait to see new budding and is there any way to help it survive? Thanks
Yikes Mark. Gosh this sounds so typical. Some of those guys with chainsaws get way too aggressive and I’m sorry it happened to you too.
There’s really nothing I can suggest that you can do to help it. As an established tree, if it is to survive (and I think it should), it has what it needs to do so. You will know in a few months. The tree will grow new sprouts and branches in an effort to replace what it just lost. The long term damage happens when people come back year after year and keep cutting it back. That is just too much for most trees to bear. Be patient and say your prayers. With any luck, the tree will survive but unfortunately, it’s lost forever it’s original grace, form and structural integrity.
#1 The utility company contracted a tree trimming company to trim trees in my city. I returned home to find 23 of my 30 Ponderosa Pine trees side trimmed, my heart is broken. I’ve been told this is unhealthy, unsafe, obviously unbalance and aesthetically unpleasing. Will the branches grow back? Should I have them cut down completely?
#2 If the trees are cut down and replaced with Emerald Arborvitae trees will they survive with the Evergreen Pine roots that are well establish there?
IF the trees are next to a power line they had the right to do whatever was necessary to prevent any accidents from happening. So, if they die then you should not plant anymore trees there.
Hi,
I have two new trees (peach & willow), that produced growth near the bottom but no new growth on the top 2/3.
They were planted the summet of 2014.
Please help. ..
Thank you so much!
Hi Laura. When you say no new growth, are the limbs dead up there? Is there old growth that flushes out new leaves on same branches but no increased growth? Either way, I would suggest pruning back those limbs in late winter (not now), to a point just above dormant leaf buds. That should stimulate new growth in spring.
If that doesn’t happen, you may need to make your cuts further down the limb where you find live tissue. It may be that those upper parts of the trees are dead. It’s not uncommon to plant or transplant trees and you have dieback at the top. Disturbed roots may lack the network to pump water to the entire tree. If not, it’s always the highest points that suffer.
Hi, I accidentally cut off the entire top of my dogwood tree with a weed wacker by cutting right through the trunk horizontally. There are now no limbs or leaves. The tree is very young and only about .5 inches in trunk diameter. Is there any way to save this tree?
Nothing you can do now em but wait it out. You may see new growth just below the cut or from a point at the base of the tree as new growth emerges to replace what was lost. Dogwoods are surprisingly resilient so lets see what happens. Nothing to lose now so let’s wait and see.
Hi Joe, Just had a 7′ Vanderwolf Pine put in and the tip was broken off in transit.
I am guessing 6″ to 12″ was snapped off. Any chance the tree will recover and look ok?
Hi jack. I just don’t know this tree well enough to tell you definitively. However, if it has a dominant lead which i think it does, my experience is that when a tree like that loses it’s main lead, it will develop a new lead from the closet side branch. However, to help things along, here’s what I have done in similar situations with other conifers that have lost their lead. I select the best / closest side branch as the designated new lead. I then secure it to a tall stake so that the side branch is now turned up ( I use velcro tape). The extra encouragement of showing it the way has worked wonders for me. The tree figures it out and the results have been very positive. Give it a try and let me know how it works out. BTW, leave the “splint on as long as you can. Eventually the side branch turned lead will develop the rigidity to remove the splint. But don’t rush it.
Hi Joe
How do you know if a redwood is healthy? One of my redwood trees has excessive bark peeling, and looks black at the bottom.
Mary
Mary, it’s hard to say without being able to inspect it. When in doubt, I would def. check with a “certified arborist”. You’ll find them listed online but be sure they are truly certified. They’ll be able to show you their credentials if they are. You can also look them up. But it takes a trained eye to assess the real issue and the proper resolution. If the tree can be saved, they’ll give you options to do that.
Hi Joe, I have tree that is dead at the top, but is thriving in the middle and bottom…could I then top it? I´m trying to save it. Thanks
Hi Grady. In your case, cutting out the top would be advisable. Depending on the tree, you may see that it develops a new lead to replace the dominant lead that was removed, if it’s a tree with that form. If there is no main lead, hopefully you’ll still get new growth emerging from just below where you removed the dead material.
But, you should try and assess why the tree is dead at the top; was it drought, disease, pests? Also, while you’re cutting be sure to cut what is necessary to remove all the dead trunk and limb tissue. You’ll see clean wood once you cut below the area of damage.
Hi Joe,
I planted a baby weeping cherry tree last fall and in the same week I planted it my young daughter snapped the top off of it. This spring it has produced several lateral limbs all up and down the tree. I am just wondering if it will grow tall like it is supposed to and still have the weeping canopy I was hoping for?
Hi Shelia. Sorry I missed your question when you sent it to me. How is your tree doing now? Is it resuming it’s tree form and producing a weeping canopy? I don’t know enough about that tree to be able to tell you if it will naturally resume that growth pattern. However, if it is not, you might try taking a side limbing growing near the tip and point it up and secure it with a splint or round stake, like a strong piece of bamboo, etc. If you give it some help, often times it will get the message it is supposed to be the new leader and will assume that dominant position on the tree. I’ve done that a number of times on conifers that have their leaders broken. Good luck and let us know how it works out.
Hi Joe, I have an absolutely beautiful and quite large 100+yo Virginia pine in my front yard and have noticed over the past several years that it is starting to lean in the direction of the wind (not toward the house). I understand that the crown acts as a pivot point for the shallow root ball and the leaning will only continue to get worse overtime until it ultimately falls. I desperately do not want to lose this tree due to aesthetic and personal family reasons and so I consulted several arborists in the area and they all suggested topping the tree by 12-15′ and then thinning out the remaining limbs. This terrifies me in so many levels and pretty much for all the same reasons that you stated in your article. But I have no idea what else to do other than just let the tree fall, which is also extremely heartbreaking to think about happening. Not to mention that it would undoubtedly damage several of the trees around it once it did fall, which includes a 250+yo tulip poplar and 75+yo dogwood that are both within 25′ of the pine. I am open for any and all suggestions. I just can’t help but think that it just doesn’t make any sense to potentially (and probably) damage and kill the tree in the process of trying to save it. Please help me and the tree.
Laura, I’m sure this is a situation where it feels like you don’t have a great option either way. I would have to say if you are getting the same information from “several arborists”, then I would trust that…IF they are “Certified Arborists” as deemed by their credentials which they should readily be able to share with you. If they are who they say, they can produce this information and you can even cross reference this online to verify. But if it’s someone with a chainsaw calling themselves an arborist, take heed! Conflict of interest rarely work out in my opinion.
Please help! I had a young tree with a trunk about 2.5 inches in diameter that stood about four feet high. It was accidentally cut off by someone doing some yard work. there is about two feet of trunk left sticking out of the ground. All the little branches and greenery are gone. I’m devastated! Is there any way to save it so it will grow back. I’ve been babying it for a couple of years now and am just heartbroken.
sorry to hear about this Heather. It may grow back but only time will tell. A new sprout may assume apical dominance to replace the vertical lead trunk that was cut off. If so, you should be fine. But it depends on the type of tree and other issues. Be patient and you’ll know one way or another by fall I would imagine. No point in giving up now. I’m pulling for you Heather!
I get that topping a tee is bad. For me it’s like removing a limb (arm or leg) would I rather remove the limb or would I rather die. In many cases the tree can be topped or it can be removed; under such circumstances topping a tree makes more sense than perhaps you can imagine. If I want it shorter there is no other way, you say get an arborist, but is he going to do take a section of the trunk off and glue it back together. I think trees are beautiful I love trees I also control my landscape, although maybe I did not plant it , and a tall tree in some cases is just not going to work. When you actually have a solution let us know ..
The repeated topping of a tree to control its size will continue to stress the tree, produce weakly attached new limbs to replace the ones that are lost, and open the tree up to pests and diseases. Trees will quickly attempt to regrow to their original size with inferior limb attachments. While I understand there are times where controlling the size through topping “may” be necessary, nearly all of the time it’s a losing battle. Once the tree finally dies, the solution is to replace it with a variety that stays within the desired mature height. Until then, alternatives to topping may include selective pruning and thinning. These efforts can reduce overall height in some cases, as well as overall canopy and density–possible acceptable compromises to topping.
Somebody did topping to my tree after they were told to just trim branches I’m so heart broken can I help it grow healthier by giving it tree fertilizer? PLEASE HELP.
I hate to hear that. Now that it’s cut, nothing you can do. Fertilizer won’t fix it. The tree is naturally going to respond to rapid growth to try and replace what was just lost. You don’t want that growth to be too rapid though with extra fertilizer. That can make the wood even softer and less able to withstand future environmental challenges. Good luck.
We have a volunteer tree growing from a tree we unfortunately had to remove. The tree has grown upward quite fast, but the trunk is not strong enough to hold the branches up. We have had to tie it down now for two years. How do we get the trunk to grow thicker? I don’t know what kind of tree this is but it sure gives us great shade.
The only thing I would suggest you do to give the trunk a fighting chance to grow straight and tall is to reduce the amount of branching that is pulling the trunk over and inhibiting it from growing up. This is a case where you may actually want to consider “topping” the trunk above a certain set of branches. I never thought I’d actually say that, but this is a case where you might want to reduce the weight at the top of the tree for now. If you take this route, remove a top portion of the tree down to where you see new buds or branching. After making the cut, you’ll either get a new branch that takes the place as the new lead, or you’ll get multiple branching that makes for a fuller tree.
But before you do any of that, make sure you are getting enough sunlight down to this tree to begin with. It may be that it is simply trying to grow rapidly to reach sufficient light. If it is being shaded, it will stretch and become leggy. The result can be exactly what you are experiencing: a thin trunk with insufficient girth to hold up the branching trying to capture enough light to sustain itself in less than ideal conditions.
Our sweet gum was attacked by borers. They went undetected until a large percentage of the tree had died including the top. We have treated the infestation a few times but aren’t sure if the tree will grow back with out it’s top.
It depends on what kind of borers. Some infect the entire tree and there’s nothing you can do to save it. It sounds like that’s the state of your tree. But losing the top is not a death sentence by itself and some trees recover. But they likely were not affected by borers. In your case, if the top died, the tree is clearly in decline and unlikely to recover in my opinion. If you want to be sure before deciding to cut it down, consult with a “certified arborist” who will be able to give you an accurate assessment without the incentive of earning a fee to cut it down.
Hi Joe,
Our new neighbors approached us today asking if we would be willing to cut down a row of white pines in our backyard, because they are blocking the sun in their yard where they have a swimming pool, and also dropping pine needles. I am very resistant to doing this, but don’t know the best way to handle it, especially because I see you saying that cutting off the tops is a bad idea. Do you have any suggestions or ways to think about it that would make sense in responding to them? Some reasons pro and con would be very helpful. We live in Massachusetts. Thank you!
Topping a tree opens it up to the risks in infestation for pests and diseases. New growth “may” occur when a nearby side branch turns upward to replace the lost lead. But I would personally not risk it if you like your trees. I understand wanting to be a good neighbor, but this is a big ask. I would hire a “certified arborist” to consult on this one with a physical inspection of the site. Good luck!
We had a spring snow storm and the top of my flowering crab apple tree has broke off. I’m not sure what I can do to save the tree? Will the tree die? Is there something I can do to save it? We live pretty farout of town and every tree person we call says they don’t come out to our area. Desperate on how to cut the branch that’s hanging off? Please if you could give me any advise my email address is dntnwld@aol.com thank you.
A person with disabilities can not work above 5-6 feet. Is able, and likes to work on lower limbs.
How can this be delt with on trees, fruit trees, etc.
can not afford regular maintenance.
Really NEED to TOP ! or
Dale, my admonition is for people who butcher would would be or could be full grown hardwoods if allowed to do what they were meant to do. In your case, there are many fruit tree and regular tree varieties that remain rather small, or at least very slow growing. Also, with fruit trees, it is perfectly acceptable to keep them pruned to a manageable, workable level.
But my problem is when people with chain saws start butchering mature trees for no sound horticultural reason.
Hi Joe, I was interested in this article because for some time, our neighbors have been pressuring us to either top or remove our redwood tree to improve their view. We live in hilly, urban area in Northern California on a small lot. The tree is about 75 feet high and is about 30 feet from the back of the house. It is about 65 years old, healthy, and trimmed regularly. Years ago, the owner topped the tree (wasn’t us!), and it has grown a split double trunk. I really need some advice as to what to do with it, if anything. Thanks!
Hi Eric. A split double trunk is never good. That’s one of the hazards of topping trees. If I were you, I pay a few bucks to consult with a “Certified Arborist” to get a professional opinion in writing. This would give you the supporting information you may be looking for if you feel the need to have another opinion.
Hi Joe, My house backs up to a conservation area which then backs up to an Air Force landing strip. To make a long story short, all the trees in this conservation area, and now my property, that exceed a certain height are being mandated to be “topped off” or removed because they are impeding the viability of the landing strip. I was told that I could have the trees on my property replaced by ornamental trees. Any suggestions of trees that will provide the sound barrier and lushness that I bought this property for?
Hi Laryssa. Sorry to hear about the mandate on your trees. I would replace them with a mix of broadleaf evergreen trees and large evergreen shrubs. They will do a good job of absorbing and dampening some of the sound. I don’t know where you live, but here in Georgia, I would use Lots of magnolia trees since they have large thick leaves that remain on the tree through winter. If they are not suitable for your area, look for other trees like this. You should contact your local county extension service for specific suggestions.
I would also consider: hemlocks, junipers, cryptomeria, and holly
Large shrubs include cherry laurel, camellia, holly, and elaeagnus to start.
Good luck.
Just ad to add my two cents worth here. I do realize this article was written some months ago. Maybe I am just venting my frustration.
We had a beautiful healthy maple tree in our front yard that we planted 35 years ago and had given us some nice shade.. It had some very long limbs that needed a trimming but no dead branches or anything. Just taking the branches back 10-15 feet would have done the job nicely.
The tree trimmers came and discussed the trimming process with my husband. I was gone for several hours and when I came back our wonderful tree is now reduced to 6 stubs with a few branches/leaves sprouting from the top of the tree. We paid them $850…!!
It is so hideous that I can’t believe it. My husband likes it. It has changed our whole landscape in the front yard. If someone would have knocked on our door and offered to pay us $850 to do that to our tree I would have refused.
I feel your pain L.S. That is exactly how I feel with “tree companies” incorrectly advise customers about how to put, prune, or trim their trees. I stand by my admonition that if you have a tree that is not being cut to the group, pay a little more and hire a “Certified Arborist”. It’s well worth the money, and you’ll never have an unfortunate surprise like you sadly experienced. I hate this happened to you. People that trim trees like this and advise that it is the right thing to do, should not be in that business.
Hi Joe,
I planted a redwood tree about fifteen years ago. Two or three years later a hawk landed on the tip and it broke off. The tree seems to be healthy, it has grown bigger around at the base and the branches grow out but it will not grow up. It is still close to the same height it was when the top broke off. The branches are about ten feet wide and its about ten feet tall but perfectly flat on top. Is there anything I can do to get it to grow up again?
Thanks, Brad
You can try to train one of the top branches to grow up rather than out. You will need a long support such as a sturdy piece of bamboo and something to attach the plyable horizontal branch to the vertical support. I use velcro tape you can often find in the garden center. Another option is soft cloth or florist tape. Find a branch right at the top of the tree that can take over as the new vertical lead. With the support of the solid vertical piece, the newly attached branch should eventually assume the new lead and horizontal branching should eventually follow. I have not done this with a redwood but I have down it with other conifers and evergreens. The principle should be the same though. Its the only thing I know to do but I think it will work over time. Be patient though. Good luck.
Hi Joe. I have several Eastern White Pine that have grown to more than 100 ft. I love them but they are too close to the house. After Hurricane Sandy toppled a few of them–thankfully the fallen trees missed the house–I have been really anxious about those trees. I do not want to cut down the trees entirely, but I am not sure there are any other alternatives. I was thinking of “topping” the trees down to the lowest branches that have leaves, but I am concerned that the trees may not survive and it may look strange. Do you have any other suggestions? Thank you.
Hi Lee. Topping any type of tree is inadvisable and in the case of white pines (as described below) it is likely to kill them. In the event that the trees survived topping, the rapid growth that would result creates a high risk of branch failures.
It may be possible to have the trees pruned to thin the canopies; this reduces wind and ice pressure on the trunk and branches and reduces the risk of failure. I suggest consulting an ISA certified arborist, who can evaluate tree structure and pruning or removal needs.
MR. ARBORIST:
I’D LIKE TO KNOW IF IT IS ADVISABLE, OR NOT, TO PAINT THE EXPOSED AREA ON TREES WHERE LIMBS ARE REMOVED. I GREW UP HEARING THAT THIS IS THE WISE AND CORRECT PRACTICE. IS IT?
THANK YOU.
This is not a wise practice Dion. The paint can actually seal in moisture and counteract what nature does best. Save yourself the time and effort and don’t paint the exposed areas from limb removal. Just make sure you make the right cut, and nature will take care of the rest.
This is good to know! Thanks, Joe.
Hi Joe! I live in Cana, Virginia. There is a large maple in my front yard, close to the house. My husband was raised in the south and wishes to “top” the tee for fear of a branch falling on the house. I was raised in New York, where we are not familiar with this “topping” procedure. Are there any companies that I could call that are local that prune this beautiful tree? Thanks –
W ill topping fruit trees ruin them I saw yourshow on topping I wondered. Thanks Roy
Hi Roy. That depends. Some varieties of fruit trees are routinely topped without incident to promote open, outward growth, and to manage size to a more pickable height. Peach trees are a common example of this practice. So, as long as the pruning is done properly and timely, they can survive and produce for years.